This tutorial also calls for multiple power tools and manual tools that may be potentially hazardous if misused. It releases very strong fumes and should not be handled without gloves. ALWAYS wear a respirator, goggles, and work in a well ventilated area.īONDO: Car filler, can be dangerous. Be extremely careful when handling it! Always pay close attention to what you’re doing.įiberglass resin is a very toxic and dangerous substance. This tutorial includes lots of power tools and potentially dangerous materials, so please get an adult to help you out.Įxacto knives are VERY sharp.
#Pepakura helmets how to#
I will post some updates on my facebook page before I make my part 2 so check there for the most current progress.Want to make some cool armor but not so sure how to tackle it? Do you want to make a custom helmet but you don't have any idea what to do? Well I'm going to show you how to make a lightweight, durable, and relatively cheap way to make a helmet! In this tutorial, I'm going to show you how!Ĭurrently selling for: All of your dollarsĪ detailed explanation on how to turn a pepakura file into a durable, lightweight helmet, possibly even a master mold for copies. My next step is to sand the entire helmet down from the 120 to 220>320>400 then prime it and wet sand it down and prepare it for the chrome process. Once I had the entire helmet roughly smoothed out, I attached the ears temporarily to see how it looks, So far I’m extremely happy with how this is turning out. I sanded down the helmet cast completely with 120 grit sandpaper and found some minor imperfections, so I used some filler in those areas. Here is a 360 view of where I am with the helmet now. I made a simple mold that was 2 layers and let it sit to cure. Luckily since I already had the mold done before the damage, I was still able to produce my first successful cast!Īs I did not have access to a lathe, I ended up having the ear 3d printed and then decided to make a mold from that. I used 2 pieces of mdf for each half that bolted together to join the shell halves together.ĭuring the demolding process I had trouble taking the master helmet out of the shell from the visor half and ended up cracking it halfway down one side. The outer shell was split into two parts as well to allow for easier demolding. At this point I let it cure and prepare to add the outer shell. Here is a picture of the second half of the mold applied.
#Pepakura helmets registration#
The round parts you see are registration keys to help put the mold back into the outer shell properly so that it maintains its shape. As it was somewhat of a complex shape, I split the mold into 2 halves to allow for easy demolding. I used Smooth-On’s Rebound 25 to create my mold around the helmet. I purposely left the visor and ears a bit off as I was planning on cutting those sections out on he cast. I wet sanded the helmet from 400>600>800>1000 grit to make sure it was completely smooth as any imperfections would translate to the finished cast. I will go into more detail on the Guy Manuel Helmet as to what I did to get to this stage of the helmet before molding.Īt this point the helmet is completely smoothed out and primed. Sadly this was the only picture I could salvage from my camera. Here is a picture of the helmet in the sanding and filling stage.
At this point, I was pretty excited to see the finished product as the papercraft model showed a lot of potential for a great helmet I have more pictures of that progress on my Guy Manuel helmet build for anyone interested as I bought a new camera to replace my old one.Īs you can see here there is a tremendous difference between my first Thomas helmet and the new papercraft. Unfortunately I lost a majority of my pictures from the papercraft stage to the finished master for the mold due to my camera messing up on me, but all you need to know about that is that it involved ALOT of filling and sanding. Here is my progress thus far on the Thomas Bangalter helmet. So last August I started new papercrafts for version 2 of Daft Punk Thomas and Guy helmets.